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Few places in Turkey prepare you for the sight of Pamukkale. The name translates as Cotton Castle in Turkish, and the description earns its poetry: a hillside of blinding white travertine terraces, formed over millennia as calcium-rich thermal waters spilled down the slope and solidified into shallow, cloud-coloured pools. It sits in the Denizli province of western Anatolia, inland from the Aegean coast, and the landscape it produces is unlike anything else on the geological map of the country.

The travertines are only part of the story. Directly above them, the ancient Greco-Roman city of Hierapolis occupies the plateau, and the two sites are inseparable in practice and in history. Hierapolis was founded around the second century BC, grew prosperous under Roman rule, and drew visitors to its thermal springs for much the same reasons people arrive today. The ruins that remain are substantial: a theatre in exceptional condition, a vast necropolis that stretches along the northern edge of the site, the remnants of temples and colonnaded streets, and the Antique Pool, where swimmers still move through warm mineral water above a floor scattered with ancient column fragments. The combination of working archaeology and active geology is what gives Pamukkale its particular character, and why it holds UNESCO World Heritage status.

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