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Few German cities wear their identity as openly as Dortmund. Once the industrial engine of the Ruhr, producing coal and steel on a scale that shaped the modern Federal Republic, it has spent the past three decades reinventing itself without erasing what came before. The blast furnaces are largely silent now, but the city's character, direct, proud, and quietly self-assured, remains entirely intact.

Football is the obvious place to start understanding Dortmund, and not merely because Borussia Dortmund fill Signal Iduna Park with 81,000 supporters on match days, making it the largest stadium in Germany. The German Football Museum, which opened in 2015 on Friedensplatz in the city centre, makes the case that the sport is a lens through which the whole country can be read. Permanent and rotating exhibitions trace the national team's history from the 1954 World Cup triumph in Bern through to the present, using archive footage, original trophies, and interactive installations to place each era in its social context. It is the kind of institution that rewards visitors who arrive knowing little about football as much as those who arrive knowing everything.