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Your guide to Ayutthaya

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An hour and a half north of Bangkok by road, Ayutthaya was once one of the largest and most cosmopolitan cities on earth. At its peak in the seventeenth century, the kingdom it anchored drew merchants from Persia, China, Japan, Portugal, and the Netherlands, and its population rivalled that of contemporary London or Paris. Today the city occupies a river island formed by the confluence of the Chao Phraya, the Pa Sak, and the Lopburi rivers, and the ruins that remain from that era carry UNESCO World Heritage status, their broken prangs and headless Buddhas rising from the flat central plains with a quiet authority that no photograph quite prepares you for.

The historical park at the core of the island is where most visitors spend the better part of a day. Wat Mahathat, Wat Ratchaburana, and Wat Phra Si Sanphet each reward unhurried attention, and the famous sandstone Buddha head entwined in the roots of a bodhi tree at Wat Mahathat has become one of the most reproduced images in Thai travel photography. Beyond the park, the city itself is a working provincial capital with a market district along the eastern bank, riverside restaurants, and a pace that feels genuinely removed from the capital's density.

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